Wednesday 17 December 2014

Isle De Saints to Guadeloupe - a hill climb & 7.7 knots!


After four beautiful days in the Isle de saints we were getting itchy feet to leave and explore pastures new.

On such a small island we met so many locals during our time there that we almost felt like a local as we walked down the street. Familiar people waved hello and some even attempted to hitchhike a ride north with us, we politely informed them this was our holiday and we didn't have room for anyone else!


One character we met was trying to kayak his way to Florida, seeing our blog inspired him as he told us he has been moving around the world one day at a time. For the last 24 years he has only planned as far as his next meal. Leaving Terre du haut in the morning we had an open idea to where we were going. We needed fuel and water and had an aim to get to Antigua at some point this weekend. We planned to sail up the western coast of Guadeloupe but this didn't leave us much choice in location for a fuel dock. Our only option was a Marina in Basse-Terre just off the south west tip of the island. 
We had a beautiful sail dodging squalls up to our first port of call. Amy having told us she wants to learn to sail was delegated boat captain and as we came out the back of squalls (and down a wave) we had Slowey up to 8knts! (Camera only managed to capture 7.7). Rounding the corner the wind died and we dropped sails to head into the harbour.



We were a little dubious about this marina (the only one with fuel and water) as our cruising guide and a couple of charts had shown that the entrance had been destroyed in a storm and could now maybe not be deep enough for us! Another said it had been dredged and would be fine. The marina office wasn't answering the phone. After much debate and more phone calls we were almost abandoning the plan altogether. One final phone number found in the back of an old book finally went through, the marina assured us we we're fine to come in and fuel up.
Motoring on to the dock and refuelling wasn't a problem. Getting off the dock was slightly more exciting. The marinas water supply wasn't working and we all voted we didn't need to shower until Antigua so we bailed on topping up the tanks.

First part of the plan accomplished we decided the location wasn't overly selubrious and we needed to leave. There was a heavy surge in the tiny marina and it took everyone's knowledge together to work out a way to get off the dock without the ability to spring off or drive off straight forward or astern. Knowing 'slowey' does not go astern but also knowing astern was our only option out of this we went for it. Esme said after that she had misplaced her cool in the marina and regained it back up somewhere outside the marina entrance upon escape. Even when we were perpendicular in the tiny entrance channel we kept calm and Esme performed amazingly. It was quite possibly the worse dock we could have gone onto and slow flight doesn't like to move in the direction you want it to... When you want it to.

Safely out of the marina all was forgotten, lunch was made and we headed north to the anchorage of Deshaies. With just shy of 45 miles to Antigua from this point we decided after a tedious trip up the coast that we would spend the following day here and depart from Antigua from there. 



The following day was hot and humid and the wind was funnelling through the mountains sending crazy gusts into the anchorage. The idea to stay was the perfect plan as the trip to Antigua would have been rough. 

As it was slightly over cast we decided to go for an explore along a walk to the next beach. The tourist information said it would only be a short 20 minute walk (which turned into 3 hours) over the hill to a lovely beach.
Flip flops on and totally un prepared we set of to find the beach for a swim!

After a strenuous climb over huge rock boulders and down slippery muddy paths Freyja and Esme... with dry mouths and a distinct lack of preparation and liquid turned back. Determined to carry on Amy convinced Pippa that we would make it for a swim and it wasn't to much further.... We powered on down the hill (that felt like a mountain) for another half hour....Only to arrive at a cannon and a fairly un interesting view point... Calves aching, dehydrated, hungry and possibly slightly lost we decided to head back up and to the anchorage where we had planned to meet the girls in a local restaurant for lunch...3 hours later (we suspect the tourist information lady had never left her air-conditioned office!)



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