Friday 12 December 2014

Isle De Saints - bumpy nights & clear kayaks

Leaving the main town in search of a solitary beach or nook to spend the day we went a little way around Terre de Haut to a little anchorage called Pain au Sucre, translated to 'the sugar loaf'. We were not the only ones here but the water was clear and inviting so we decided to stay. The holding was bad but on the second attempt we dug in our anchor and drew straws on who would have to dive on it to check. Happy we were secure we used our traditional paddleboard snorkel technique that we perfected in the Exumas to explore the rocks nearby and the beach. Freyja and Pippa feeling sleepy went for a nap whilst Amy and Esme went off on a paddleboard mission.

That night wasn't as relaxing as we had hoped for. A squall with high winds and lots of rain came through at around midnight waking us and all the boats around us up (except for Pippa who could sleep through a firework display inside her cabin if she wanted to). Slightly on edge as we knew the holding in the anchorage was unreliable we sat awake and checked our transits until it passed and we were happily still in place.

Due to some strange tidal eddies and random gusts coming off the land around 4am all of the boats in the anchorage were facing every which way. The Ducker girls started noticing funny goings on earlier and were already snoozing up on deck. They awoke with the stern of a small sailing boat swung round towards us uncomfortably close to the side of our hull. Using her body as a human shield Freyja leapt in to hold the boat away as Esme grabbed the key and turned the engine on ready to move. Amy being up previously in the night woke up knowing what was probably going on and went straight for our anchor to help. Pippa slightly confused from her deep slumber was wondering why Freyja was in her bikini and if she had gone for a late night swim! Not wanting to attempt re-anchoring in the dead of night we motored back round to the mooring buoys to tie up and continue our slumber uninterrupted.

Sleeping until a mammoth 9:30, we arose for a lazy breakfast in a cafe on the shore followed by some shop perusing. Feeling energised by lunch we decided to go hire some completely clear kayaks from a local company ashore, an upgrade from last years paddle boarding snorkelling technique. We could paddle ourselves around, see the fish and the eerie boat wrecks beneath us and as Freyja put it... Not even get our hair wet. 




Paddling around the coastline we could get to places that even divers could not get to, the kayaks could be taken over the top of shallow reefs with out harm to the coral or disturbing the creatures that resided there. Three hours later we were feeling crispy, bronzed and tired so paddled back to the beach for a much deserved ice cream and a shower before we went out to dinner in the evening.



Esme had read in the cruising guide about a restaurant hidden in the hills behind the town named Les Petite Saints. The review mentioned the chefs previous experience working as a pastry chef in some top restaurants across the world. As if the promise of fine deserts wasn't enough the food was also supposed to be exquisite. We were not disappointed, with a view overlooking the harbour and amazing food we left feeling sleepy and happy. Pippa in particular as living with three vegetarians has deprived her, she had her opportunity to consume a full 300g of steak!
Full on butter, wine and chocolate pudding we walked on down to the dinghy dock and headed back to slow flight to hit the hay...







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