After what we imagined the unsurpassable beauty of Shroud Cay It was difficult for us to depart from our paradise island. Eventually tearing ourselves away we continued our journey through the national park bound for the head quarters on the island of "Warderick wells".
The Exuma Land and Sea park was formed by the Bahamas national trust. It covers 176 miles containing 365 cays (perhaps we'll be here for a while...) The area was set aside as a replenishment, restoration and nursery area for all marine and wildlife. There is a no taking law by any means of marine, plant or animal life whether living, dead or fossilised. Reinforced by the park wardens and a single military presence on the patrols. The park has been said to possibly be the most exquisite cruising ground in the Western Hemisphere!
Warderick Wells is a tricky island to navigate into, with strong currents and small channels but the rewards our for careful navigation were plenty!
Sad but magnificent on the beach adjacent to the rangers office is a 52ft Sperm whale skeleton. A poignant reminder of our effect on the natural world. The sperm whale was found washed up dead on the shores after swallowing plastic bags thinking they were jellyfish.
After a little snorkeling we took the trail leading us up BooHoo hill. An area named for an old schooner which sunk off the island centuries back leaving the crew marooned on the island. The marooned all perished as there is no fresh water supply on the island. The legend says that if you climb to the top of the hill at midnight on a full moon you can hear the ghosts of the perished singing hymns. (Hence 'boohoo hill')
'water water everywhere, but not a drop to drink'
Many sailors have passed through these waters leaving driftwood momentos of their travels in tribute to the weather and to the ghosts of sailors who haunt the shores. After our hill climb we walked down to the blow holes. The Atlantic Ocean showing off her power as she sent powerful waves against the shore blasting water into the air.
We finally celebrated our first BBQ on board, leaving Abe in charge Esme and Pippa got stuck into our gin supply. After a yummy dinner and a few giggles we played the crews favourite game, Yahtzee!
After a blustery night morning broke and Esme stepped down off the stern for a morning paddle, she got a big surprise as a nurse shark swam right up to her toes sending Esme scrambling back up sharpish!
After the initial 'panic' had subsided we all realised that this was a friendly shark. He just wanted to say hello. It didn’t take long for Abe to get in for a swim and the rest of us more sheepish sorts to be hanging off the ladder as he came in for a closer look! He must have decided we were ok as he grew in confidence we put our hands into the water and he came back again and again as we stroked his sand paper skin. He swam gracefully around us and Esme on her paddle board for over an hour.
We said goodbye and our new friend and left for Staniel Cay where Freyja is most excited about meeting more of the island wildlife, the legendary swimming pigs..!